21 / 40
seem to be cut from the same
cloth, fairly lean and taut,
but with an effusive pear and
apple nose followed by noble
depth and complexity.
Remembering
my
first
experience with Wyncroft,
our conversation turned to
the 2003 vintage, I had tried
earlier and what made it so
special. “2003 was a real
ripe vintage,” says Jim, “and
the 2011 is going to be very
similar to that in style.”
Without further ado, he
presented a bottle of an
unlabeled and unreleased
2011 Chardonnay from the
stacks. One taste and I was
transported back to Detroit
and central France at the
same time. While sipping
this golden elixir, I inquired
how Michigan’s climate can
produce such fine wines.
“At the time that I planted
the vineyard, people didn’t
believe that Michigan could
make world class wines,” says
Lester. “Part of the reason was
that, historically, Michigan
wines had been made out
of Concord grapes and other
labrusca grapes instead of the
European vitis vinifera. The
conventional wisdom in the
1980’s, when I got started,
was that it was impossible
to grow vitis vinifera grapes
in Michigan. But, I had read
about Konstantin Frank from
the Finger Lakes region of
New York, and how back in
the 50’s he had proven that
it was possible to grow vitis
vinifera grapes there. A quick
look at a map convinced me
that if they would grow there,
they would also grow in
Michigan.”
As the sun began to sink
lower in the sky, I packed up
my Chardonnay and other
Wyncroft gems, my afternoon
with Jim Lester came to a
symphonic close. I will not
soon forget the wines and
the visit. If a trip to southern
Michigan is on your radar, a
stop at Wyncroft would be
well worth the side trip.
NWO Golf Links